[Glenn&Ida]

I searched on "humidity" and did not see this topic, so here goes! Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere.

On a recent long trip the GOM seemed more sensitive ( = would drop faster ) when the HVAC (and I had it always in ECO mode) was working hard to dehumidify the car, not just warm it. I did not do any kind of scientific experiment where I was somehow holding outside and inside air temps constant while experiencing different ambient exterior humidity: this is only an impression I got. So, to phrase this as a question:

"Is there any reason range would drop more sharply if the HVAC were not only warming the car, but also actively dehumidifying the interior (e.g. demisting the windshield)?"

(I did NOT turn on front or rear defrost. I was just thinking (imagining?) that when in rainy environments as opposed to dry environments, with temperatures about the same regardless, range dropped faster,)

Thanks!

 

[lenny]

Dehumidification is usually done using an air conditioner. You need to pass the humidified air over a colder - than-ambient heat exchanger to condense out the humidity. So, dehumidifying requires you to run your heat pump in AC mode, presumably, while activating radiant heat strips. This would be less efficient than running your heat pump in heat mode only. I would presume that's the problem here.

 

[Glenn&Ida]

Thanks! I suppose there is no way for the driver to directly control the heat pump mode, probably? In essence, I would rather have to periodically wipe down the inside of my windshield (to remove condensation) than to give up X miles of battery range. I'd make the trade! But I see no way (in the owner's manual) to execute such control...

 

[R P]

Thanks! I suppose there is no way for the driver to directly control the heat pump mode, probably? In essence, I would rather have to periodically wipe down the inside of my windshield (to remove condensation) than to give up X miles of battery range. I'd make the trade! But I see no way (in the owner's manual) to execute such control...

I don't think it makes that much difference in the long run. I use ECO Climate all the time, as well as ECO drive mode. There is a range hit initially as everything warms up. And after skiing there is a fair bit of moisture in the car, so I also defrost it for a short time, to clear it up. Once everything is warm, the consumption decreases. I just don't consider sacrificing comfort to that degree is worth the few extra miles of range you might save.

If you really need to save the miles, eg when you are running short of range to your next charge, then just shut Climate off. Opening the windows a bit for a while might clear out the moisture. But you better have a warm jacket.

 

[Glenn&Ida]

Thanks! Your suggestions and comments all make sense. I was just trying to find out if humidity is as big an issue as temperature, when it comes to consuming HVAC energy. My anecdotal experience that (e.g.) running ECO mode for 30 minutes when it is 35 degrees F out and DRY drew less energy than running ECO mode for 30 minutes when it is 35 degrees F and WET. I should probably try to find an automotive HVAC expert for this. I did not phrase my initial question well, I think. Thanks again, GM