[R P]

Yup, contactor is like a big solenoid. I used to carry jumper cables, but never had to use them. Some would buy and carry the small 12V power packs, but they are not cheap.

 

[JayEM]

Yup, contactor is like a big solenoid. I used to carry jumper cables, but never had to use them. Some would buy and carry the small 12V power packs, but they are not cheap.

Not that expensive, in my experience. Cheaper than a tow.

Edit: and doesn't require a second car.

 

[KSchneider]

Or load test them during PDI and replace ”on condition”.

n6nl, thank you for coherent and very clearly explained comments on this issue.

 

[VICanuck]

Oh no, not another issue.
It hasn't affected the Little Car that Couldn't Catch a Break, but now that it's known, it will be sure to jinx it....

 

[JayEM]

Oh no, not another issue.
It hasn't affected the Little Car that Couldn't Catch a Break, but now that it's known, it will be sure to jinx it....

So are you calling her "LC3B" (Elsie Threeby) now? Elsie for short?

 

[KSchneider]

Oh no, not another issue.
It hasn't affected the Little Car that Couldn't Catch a Break, but now that it's known, it will be sure to jinx it....

No, not another issue. Thanks to n6nl's coherent explanation. Brush your teeth and do not smoke cigarettes. Keeo the 12V battery charged as well as the traction battery.

 

[VICanuck]

So are you calling her "LC3B" (Elsie Threeby) now? Elsie for short?

If the shoe fits.....

 

[MiamiNice]

Just an FYI, 12V batteries are a common issue on multiple EVs. Its a very common topic if anyone has looked into tesla forums, Ioniq 5 and more. I suggest everyone gets themselves a NOCO Boost (or other brand lithium Jump Starter).

There are 5 different NOCO Boost options to buy. Which do you recommend? NOCO - Lithium Jump Starters

 

[MiamiNice]

.

 

[Ducatista]

There are 5 different NOCO Boost options. Which one do you recommend? NOCO - Lithium Jump Starters

Personally I have the NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000A. But I don't believe one this big is required for the Solterra (and thats no where near the biggest). The GB20 or smaller would probably be fine. There are also other brands not just NOCO. They are just very popular. If you're a Costco member, check in a store where you are. I believe I have seen one in my local costco for a good price before.

 

[JayEM]

I have a "pretty small" different brand one, and it flawlessly restarted my previous (2017) Outback numerous times when the factory-original battery was drained by repeatedly opening and closing the power liftgate on a camping trip. An EV wouldn't need anywhere that much power to "jump" it.

 

[R P]

Well, wouldn't you know it, my 12V battery died today. I was out in the garage checking some settings when messages came on the dash about no power for brakes, and some other EV malfunction error, contact dealer, and then the car shut off. I suspected the 12V right away, so checked it with a multi-meter, and yup, SOC only at 9.63V.

Luckily, I had a 12v motorbike battery in the garage and used it to boost the Solterra battery. It worked. The car started and I left it in the On position and shut off Climate Control. I let it run for a while, shut it off, and it turned on OK by itself.

Right now, I have it hooked up to my external charger, and will let it charge to full. Meanwhile, I called my dealer, and of course they do not have that battery in stock. They will order one, and when in, I can get it replaced. The number on this is 345LN1-MF, 20HR 45Ah CCA 286A.

I probably helped this battery go bad. It's been cool lately so had the all the Climate controls set to Auto incl the seats and steering wheel. So when you start driving everything is heating until it is warmed up. Except the trips have just been around town for shorter durations, and the heaters never shut off in that time. Plus with fiddling in the garage with my settings, and just having the car in ACC, not full On, I guess was the final straw.

I thought, but did not know for sure, that the 12V would automatically be charged up by the traction battery when idle. That's how my Kona worked, and the battery never went bad, or even very low. But seems that is not the case with the Solterra.

When charged up again, I will be a little more cautious for now with how much Climate heating I am using and not have it in ACC for very long. But not sure how long it will be to get a new battery.

 

[KSchneider]

Do you have a pre-shut-down car made in the spring or a late 2022 model? Low VIN or higher?

 

[R P]

Do you have a pre-shut-down car made in the spring or a late 2022 model? Low VIN or higher?

Yes, mine is from the spring, built in 4/22. So probably went dead sitting for so long. Batteries that go dead and left for a long period of time are usually permanently damaged even when fully charged again, and will not have their full Ah capacity anymore. So am not surprised.

 

[allenfinne]

Yes, mine is from the spring, built in 4/22. So probably went dead sitting for so long. Batteries that go dead and left for a long period of time are usually permanently damaged even when fully charged again, and will not have their full Ah capacity anymore. So am not surprised.

I took delivery of my limited Wednesday last week. Manufacture date 5/22. I noticed Saturday it "fuss" a couple times during the day with low battery voltage when I was sitting in the driveway working through the multimedia system with the car off. The second time, I checked the battery and it was at 12.1v which lower than I would expect. My wife had some errands to run and drove it about 35-40 miles. When she got back, I immediately checked the voltage and it was at 12.3v. I connected it to my battery charger in its 10amp boost mode periodically checking voltage until late evening when I disconnected it. At that point it was at 13.8v immediately after removing the charger, but within about 30 minutes back to 12.2v or so. Sunday I again put my charger on it and left it all day. Same scenario, battery voltage will rise to 13.8v but with in 30 minutes of disconnecting it will settle back to 12.2 to 12.3v. I checked it this morning before heading to work and it was at 12.1v. For now, taking a wait and see approach. I suspect the same as others have stated that the batteries went flat or near flat parked. Add to that a relatively small battery and some level of continual draw doesn't give much margin. I have a nice NOCO booster pack and have it charged and with me just in case.

 

[R P]

I took delivery of my limited Wednesday last week. Manufacture date 5/22. I noticed Saturday it "fuss" a couple times during the day with low battery voltage when I was sitting in the driveway working through the multimedia system with the car off. The second time, I checked the battery and it was at 12.1v which lower than I would expect. My wife had some errands to run and drove it about 35-40 miles. When she got back, I immediately checked the voltage and it was at 12.3v. I connected it to my battery charger in its 10amp boost mode periodically checking voltage until late evening when I disconnected it. At that point it was at 13.8v immediately after removing the charger, but within about 30 minutes back to 12.2v or so. Sunday I again put my charger on it and left it all day. Same scenario, battery voltage will rise to 13.8v but with in 30 minutes of disconnecting it will settle back to 12.2 to 12.3v. I checked it this morning before heading to work and it was at 12.1v. For now, taking a wait and see approach. I suspect the same as others have stated that the batteries went flat or near flat parked. Add to that a relatively small battery and some level of continual draw doesn't give much margin. I have a nice NOCO booster pack and have it charged and with me just in case.

Yes, that is a definite sign of a bad battery. They will charge up fully, but once that surface charge is removed, if the charge goes down quickly, then it is bad. With flooded lead acid batteries (which these are), they get sulfated and stratified, even a shorted cell. Once that happens they will never hold a full charge.

My charger actually has a Repair mode and can rejuvenate some batteries, but I am not going to bother trying with this one. I would rather have it replaced.

 

[Wheels]

Haven’t had any 12V battery issues, but got this just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/NEXPOW-18000...087LRFYDB&ref_=pd_basp_bia_rpt_ba_s_1_sc&th=1

 

[JayEM]

Those are great! No more trying to find someone willing to give you a jump (and no more lugging around jumper cables). Ours more than paid for itself with our 2017 Outback (haven't had to use it at all with the 2021).

 

[R P]

Well, wouldn't you know it, my 12V battery died today. I was out in the garage checking some settings when messages came on the dash about no power for brakes, and some other EV malfunction error, contact dealer, and then the car shut off. I suspected the 12V right away, so checked it with a multi-meter, and yup, SOC only at 9.63V.

Luckily, I had a 12v motorbike battery in the garage and used it to boost the Solterra battery. It worked. The car started and I left it in the On position and shut off Climate Control. I let it run for a while, shut it off, and it turned on OK by itself.

Right now, I have it hooked up to my external charger, and will let it charge to full. Meanwhile, I called my dealer, and of course they do not have that battery in stock. They will order one, and when in, I can get it replaced. The number on this is 345LN1-MF, 20HR 45Ah CCA 286A.

I probably helped this battery go bad. It's been cool lately so had the all the Climate controls set to Auto incl the seats and steering wheel. So when you start driving everything is heating until it is warmed up. Except the trips have just been around town for shorter durations, and the heaters never shut off in that time. Plus with fiddling in the garage with my settings, and just having the car in ACC, not full On, I guess was the final straw.

I thought, but did not know for sure, that the 12V would automatically be charged up by the traction battery when idle. That's how my Kona worked, and the battery never went bad, or even very low. But seems that is not the case with the Solterra.

When charged up again, I will be a little more cautious for now with how much Climate heating I am using and not have it in ACC for very long. But not sure how long it will be to get a new battery.

I charged up my battery last night with my external charger. I then took it in to my dealer who did another charge and a full "warranty battery test". It passed, incl a good CCA. I also confirmed that with a local battery dealer and they said, too, the battery is still good.

So it seems that all my checking and customizing my options and preferences, probably contributed to it running dead yesterday. I have been doing a lot of that these last two weeks. The mistake I made was turning the car "on" without pressing the brake pedal. That is just an ACC mode, and the battery is not being charged during that time. Needles to say, going forward, I will always turn the car to full "On" when doing this.

Having said that, I still don't know if the battery gets any charging from the traction battery when it sits idle. I know my Kona did a check and recharge every 4 hours when idle. When I get my BM2, will hook that up and see what happens.

Meanwhile I will also keep on eye on the battery with just my multi-meter, and continue to carry a booster cable, just in case. So for now, looks like all is good.

So just a warning to others, do all your checking and customizations with the car fully On.

 

[KSchneider]

The Owners Manual p 71 points to correct procedures for charging the 12 V battery on p 544. Have not read that yet.
"
"■ Charging the 12-volt battery
The 12-volt battery is charged from the traction battery when the EV system is operated or while the traction battery is being charged.

If the vehicle has not been used for a long time, the 12-volt battery may become low due to self-discharge. If this occurs, follow the correct procedures. (P.544)"